Pyrenean Haute Route 2016. Days 14–19 Somport to Gavarnie

After a week’s rest at home, I returned to where I had left off, Somport.

Spain

Day 14. With Louis who accompanied me for a week, walking above the ski resort of Astun.
Day 14. With Louis who accompanied me for a week, walking above the ski resort of Astun.

France

Later that day we crossed what seemed an interminable field of boulders, the first of many on the HRP.

Day 15. Pombie hostel.
Day 15. Pombie hostel.

The clouds had lifted overnight revealing the Pic du Midi d’Ossau. The concrete mixer and bags of sand had been brought in by helicopter for the renovations.

Day 15. Passage d’Orteig.
Day 15. Passage d’Orteig.

The path can be seen climbing the cliff in the middle of the photo. There may well be a cable but in places the path is no wider than my shoes placed side-by-side .

Day 15. Looking down on the Arrémoulit hostel
Day 15. Looking down on the Arrémoulit hostel

The Arrémoulit hostel is just visible next to the lake among the rocks below the snow.

Spain

Day 16. Weather station at the Respomuso hostel.
Day 16. Weather station at the Respomuso hostel.

The HRP heads east from here but the Senda heads up to the snow-speckled Col de Tebarray visible here to the south. When I walked this section of the Senda with Hike Pyrenees on 25 June 2013 the mountains were still covered in snow.

Day 17. Skirting round the Ibones de la Facha.
Day 17. Skirting round the Ibones de la Facha.

Even today, 15 July, there was plenty of snow on the climb up to the Col de la Facha. We were happy to have crampons and ice axes.

Day 17. Looking back from the Spanish/French border at the Col de la Facha to the Respomuso lake.
Day 17. Looking back from the Spanish/French border at the Col de la Facha to the Respomuso lake.

France

The Wallon refuge was full to bursting, partly in preparation for the Course des Refuges (53km with over 3500m of ascent). Hundreds of runners would be coming the other way next day.

Day 18. Lac d’Arratille.
Day 18. Lac d’Arratille.

Spain

Just above the Lac d’Arratille, having crossed a small snowdrift – steps had been cut for the runners – we reached the col d’Arratille (2528m) and crossed into Spain. Shortly afterwards the first runners began to appear.

Day 18. Col des Mulets.
Day 18. Col des Mulets.

The runners are heading back along the path we have just taken from the Col d’Arratille, the dip in the ridge on the horizon.

France

Day 18. North face of Vignemale, with its glacier, seen from the Oulettes de Gaube hostel.
Day 18. North face of Vignemale, with its glacier, seen from the Oulettes de Gaube hostel.

In the entrance hall of the hostel two runners spent the afternoon lying on the floor, with saline drips in their arms, waiting for the helicopter to be freed from more urgent tasks and take them away.

Day 19. Bayssellance hostel for a second breakfast.
Day 19. Bayssellance hostel for a second breakfast.

The Ossoue valley was a very long hot descent. From a distance we could see large stones which had detached themselves from the cliffs and come to rest on the remains of winter avalanches. When we approached closer, the stones turned into sheep, their feet embedded firmly in the snow, keeping cool. The more intelligent ones were hiding in the refrigerator, under the edge of the avalanche, protected from the sun by a snow roof.

Day 19. Cirque de Gavarnie from the valley.
Day 19. Cirque de Gavarnie from the valley.

A photo snatched in the few seconds when no one was in sight.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *